Restoration Log,

Katarina

Page 7

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10/22/05

I removed both the  port side carlin and cabin side due to extensive rot.  A new carlin section was needed and the decking associated with the full length of the carlin as well as the deck under the old cabin side.  I cut out a 4 foot section of the carlin after supporting the whole side with boards.  I made a new carlin end of black locust with the same dimensions (3"x4"), scarfed it in and bolted it with bronze through bolts. I then backed up or gusseted the carlin scarf with another 3"X4"  beam of black locust;  This backing beam went the full length of the new carlin scarf and extended 32 1/2 feet passed the scarf and had the deck beams mortised into it like a shelf. The entire new carlin-beam, shelf beam (backing), and old carlin were bolted together as a unit.

 I removed the whole deck section about 6" off cabin side and replaced it with a single large black locust board (about 16" X 1 3/8" X 18').  The deck will eventually be covered with ply and goop, so a single plank will not be noticeable from topside and will be hard to see from below.  I chose to use the single board to add strength to the scarfed carlin and new cabin side.  I made use of heavy paper (oak tag stolen from my kids) to make a template for the deck section.  By rubbing the paper on the edges of the "hole",  I made a template and then cut a good fitting board.  Final fitting was  with planes and chisels; it  fit  very well (thanks go to Mystic Seaport  for their Wooden Boat Repair Class with Walt Ansel and Wade Smith.... took it a few years ago.) .   I hit everything in sight with red lead and fastened the board to the deck with bronze 2 1/2" inch screws.

 

The new cabin side will be made by Richard Fewtrell out of yellow pine planking stock and it will be two or three boards wide (tall) and glued together and through bolted with stainless steel threaded rod.  He will also make two new corner posts in black locust.

11/20/05

Began rebuilding the stern.  The stern was a mix of old (1927) and new (1948-65) work.  Some of the repairs were not done well and others were obviously fast fixes with odd assortments cure-all synthetics (epoxy, glass, weird epoxy saw dust mixes) etc.  All these just let the water sit next to the wood. Clearly rot was the result.  From about the third plank from the deck to the deck all major timbers were shot. 

I removed all the timbers and attached new stern stanchions (stern frame extensions) with blocking (big gussets really - 2" x 5") of all new black locust.  I removed the odd knees and the stern timber and deck  timber and installed large black locust blocking (i.e. knee like) based on Bud MacIntosh's book---"blocking in lieu of quarter knees."   I had to cut back the aft portion of the double clamp a few inches to make room to install the blocks which bridged the stanchion and the stern frame ends.  The new stern timber was made larger and more substantial.  The deck beam was made with the same curvature as the old, but slightly thinner since the black locust is stronger than the white oak removed.  Two of the old knees (larger ones) were kept and will be put back.  All this will be bolted back together with bronze nuts and bolts.  All there blocks, stanchions, etc were made of 2 1/4 " black locust cut to grain as best as possible.  I also added intermediate stern frames (4"x2 1/2") since the original stern did not have this.  The two middle stern stanchions (5"x2 1/2") are set at the original horse or traveler's width.  Also, they are not attached to the new stern frames nor are any stanchions on the boat attached to frames or the clamp.  I did this to allow their removal in case of breakage or damage.

 

 

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