1/20/08

Work to date:  We have assessed our steps for the restoration of both the Clipper 17 and the Spitzgatter.  Both boats have been semi-dismantled including interior, caulking, deck covering boards, paint removal (use the Silent Paint Remover---fantastic.  Our 1927 cutter of 34ft and 13 beam was totally stripped by a first time fellow in less than 2 days!!), fastening removal, and the removal of the garboards and a few mid planks to allow for new frames.  WBRF is lucky enough to have a hydraulic lift to help remove ballast keels and to make working on the boats a bit easier than pop-its.

Currently we have just finished reframing the Clipper 17.  The next few weeks will include installation of new fashion timbers, floor timbers, keel, bulkhead and deadwood.  We have milled 1400 board feet of very straight black locust.  This was done on site with local logs using a wood miser band saw.  We at WBRF are huge fans of Black Locust and have found it answers for all aspects of the building process.  Steam bending the frames has been a dream!

Reframing:  We take a very simple view to reframing.  While many yards would use clamps and lever arms, etc to reframe, we instead go about it in a manner the average person could do at home.

steps:

1)  Remove every third frame.  The frames are split out with a chisel directly down the middle.  This leaves the fastening sticking out from the plank.

2)  Remove the bungs from all planks.   

3)  Back the fastening with a heavy hammer or similar metal mass (like wood splitting wedge).  Carefully tap/hammer the fastenings out from the inside of the boat making sure the fastening does not chip the outer surface of the plank (if you intend to reuse the plank as we do).  This method is much faster and logical than attempting to remove the fastenings with a screwdriver or unsrew-ums.  Remember  this only works if the frame is to be replaced and not for just refastened.

4)  Fill bungs with thickened epoxy, wood bungs, or similar filler.  Re-drill the fastening hole as if it we a new plank.

5)  Get a few boxes (one screw per plank) of appropriate length square drive deck screws and washers.  These screws will be used to temporally fasten the frame to the plank as well as bring the frame tight to the plank.  We call there "Pork and Beans".  The decking screw does not remove and wood from the plank so when it is removed the plank is not compromised as long as the screw itself is not sop long it goes through the frame.  Use a length that is just enough to grab the frame and no more.

6)  Check all frame bays to make sure nothing will hamper the new frame's installation--such as bilge clamp fastenings not seen, paint, missed caulking, etc.  This is key, do not let anything stop a perfect smooth fit of plank and frame.  If something is in the way the frame will hang up while being slide into the bay or will break at the pressure point.

7)  Get steam box up to heat.  We used black locust frames we milled with the wood miser, then ripped on the table saw and then planned to dimension on the planner.  The dimensions could have been reduced (i.e. reduce scantlings) since Black Locust in the hardest and strongest North American wood, but we choose to keep the same scantling size and the original White Oak.  One dimension that should not be changed is the depth of the frame (i.e. port to starboard measure) since this is the gap the bilge clamp and sheer clamp must adhere to.  The width of the frame can be changed if it does not interfere with it installation (i.e. frame pockets in keel, gap next to floor timbers).  We do a "triage" of the frame stock, making knots, or what have you and throwing out frames that are suspect.

8) We chamfer the edges of the frame to reduce the chance of small cracks forming on the edge with then widen to lager ones.  The chamfer is small, just three passes or so of a hand plane.  We also put a bevel on BOTH ends of the frame to act as a slide "noses" for the frame.  We leave the frames at least 1-2 ft too long.  With the bevel at both ends, if we break the frame while bending it, we can quickly pull it out and may be able to turn it over fast and slide in the other way in...this has worked many times to very good effect. We paint our frames with Rust O' from our local hardware store.  This is a metal primmer. (Note: WBRF uses only solvent free linseed oil paints and varnishes from http://www.solventfreepaint.com/index.htm --the rust-O was an emergency move only and while it works nothing comes close to Allbeck Paints.  The link above it worth going .  Its loaded with good info.  Note from Bruce E.  feel we will be using on all the boat surfaces from now on, including frames.  I have painted a frame and steamed it and it does great.  This is the only way to go.  My Swedish brother turned me onto this stuff.  They use it on the old houses.  He painted his 30 years ago and has not had to since, just linseed sprayed on it once every 8 or so years!!  He lives on the coast of southern Sweden too.  Also the Stockholm wooden boat guys swear by it especially the Le Tonkinois Linseed Varnish (no sanding between coats).).  While we do not need paint on black locust since it is so very rot resistant, the paint has another benefit.  When you steam wood you are using the steam as a vehicle of heat to heat the wood, it is not a way to get water into the wood.  The wood will not take up that moisture in the box( especially Black Locust), but instead the moisture that is already inside the wood will heat up and soften the cell structure of the wood (our Black Locust was cut three years ago and has been in log form until a few days ago: moisture content was about 22%).  This means that paint will not hamper the heat getting to the inside of the wood and will actually lessen evaporative cooling of the wood when it is removed form steam box.   Another plus is that the frame will not need to be painted after it is in the boat and the backside of the frame will be painted (usually this is a problem with frames and it is common to see that the frames are ok on three sides, but rotten on the plank side due to no paint and the hole of the fastening.

9)  Steam frames for 1.25 hours per inch thickness - we found the Black Locust wanted more in the average of 2 hours.  You must experiment with your own wood and steam box.  Do not read a book and think it will work the same in your unique situation.  We limber the frames about 3/4 of the way through buy simply bending the frame slightly in 5-7 spots along its length.  We call this "Noodling".

10) Station a person inside the boat and have a few clamps ready nearby if needed.  Remove a frame from the box and RUN it to the boat.  Make sure the frame bevel is positioned to help slide over planks ands not jam up.  Slide the frame between the sheer clamp (is there.. if not make a temp one), every 10 inched or so bend the frame a little bit as the inside person used a knee or foot to keep the frame running on the planks.  It is this first bend section that limbers the frame for the rest of the bends it will encounter.  This means this is the most important time to do it right and do it gently.  The frame will sometime need help if it gets stuck on an uneven planks or something similar.  Use a flat pry bar to help lift the frame nose as it slides down.  Once the frame is to the keel position (maybe into the keel pockets), then have a look at the fit of the frame to the plank and make sure there are no odd gaps and all the fastening holes are lined up properly.  If it looks good, then take your Pork and Beans and drive then into the frame and pulling the frame firmly to the plank.  Work your way from the hardest or sharpest bend area to the least, one fastening per plank or two if needed.  Sometimes a clamp will help draw the plank in, but be very careful not to point bend it too much or it will snap.  To use a clamp effectually a plank or two need to be removed at the critical bend sites to give access.  Do not set your cordless drill to crank too tight on the fastening.  Once all the planks have one fastening each with the washer to make sure they do not pull through and break the plank, then go to the next frame bay on the opposite side of the hull (this is important so the hull keeps its shape) and repeat the whole thing.  We can do one frame every 5-8 minutes this way.

11) Leave the frame as is in the boat with the "Pork and Beans" for as long as you like, but at a minimum three days for the frame to settle.  Now go through and remove the next set of frames, bungs and fasteners and reframe in the same way.  And so on.

12)  Hints:  If you are working on a larger boat with larger frames and without a plank removed to use a clamp, then you can take a piece of steel stock and make a jig to help draw the frame to the plank from the inside.  We is barn door stops for frames in the 2-3 inch size..  like this one picturedPlace your knee on the frame as you are bending it to the frame, then position the stop angle on the frame and use long deck screws and a cordless drill to draw the sop to the plank bringing the frame with it.  In this manner we have reframed and sister framed a 34 cutter with 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 Black Locust ---with two people only...one outside and one inside.

Next class...plank removal and clean up, refastening, bulkheads, fashion timbers, stern post, deadwood, keel.  See you Feb 16-17

Picture Gallery:

clipper on lift with warm winter fire.	lifts to help position boat for reframing and other work	Clipper--reframed	new Black Locust frames

 

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